{"id":16444,"date":"2021-03-27T13:49:20","date_gmt":"2021-03-27T12:49:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.sommelier-jobs.com\/?p=16444"},"modified":"2021-03-27T18:00:01","modified_gmt":"2021-03-27T17:00:01","slug":"understanding-german-wines","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.sommelier-jobs.com\/fr\/2021\/03\/27\/understanding-german-wines\/","title":{"rendered":"Understanding German Wines..........."},"content":{"rendered":"
\n
\n

German wines are produced according to an imperfect scale based on the<\/span>
\nripeness of the grapes at harvest time. In general, riper grapes produce richer,<\/span>
\nmore complex wines. This system was put into place in 1971 because of<\/span>
\nGermany\u2019s cool, northern climate, where full ripeness was often difficult to<\/span>
\nachieve. With global climate change, however, getting full ripeness is no longer<\/span>
\nas difficult, and the distinctions between the ripeness levels can be less clear.<\/span>
\nAnother potential problem with this ripeness-based system is that it ignores the<\/span>
\nhistorically proven superiority of certain grape varieties and vineyard sites, and<\/span>
\ndoes nothing to address differences in quality among producers. Judging only<\/span>
\nfrom the label, a Riesling Sp\u00e4tlese from a dedicated winemaker and a great<\/span>
\nvineyard would seem to be of the same quality as a Sp\u00e4tlese from an inferior<\/span>
\ngrape variety, an industrial producer, and lousy vineyards. It\u2019s important to<\/span>
\nbecome familiar with the producers that offer consistent quality.<\/span><\/h3>\n<\/div>\n

Terroir:<\/span><\/em><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Each wine-producing region has it's own unique terroir, which is loosely defined as the geographical factors that impact viticulture. Germany is defined by its steep slopes and cool climate. In many ways, it is the prototype for cold-weather wine production. Their success has demonstrated to other cold regions that quality wine may be consistently produced. In regions such as this, it can be difficult for grapes to fully ripen, vineyard sites are often chosen based on how well they can utilize available sunlight. Stony, south-facing, slopes are ideal for providing grapes with more sunlight exposure and heat retention. \u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\n

\"\"<\/span><\/p>\n

Regions:\u00a0<\/span><\/em><\/strong><\/h2>\n

There are 13 major wine-producing regions in Germany. Most of the wine I find comes from Mosel, though I've encountered wines from Nahe, Pfalz, and Rheinhessen. Unlike other Old World wine-producing countries, I have never seen German wines divided by region in stores. At this time, I simply do not think we see the volume of wine imported from all regions that would necessitate this kind of categorization.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

However, I do think it's important for wine to have a sense of place, so for those who are curious, here are Germany's 13 wine regions:\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

    \n
  • Ahr<\/span><\/li>\n
  • Baden<\/span><\/li>\n
  • Franken<\/span><\/li>\n
  • Hessische Bergstrasse<\/span><\/li>\n
  • Muttelrhein<\/span><\/li>\n
  • Mosel<\/span><\/li>\n
  • Nahe<\/span><\/li>\n
  • Pfalz<\/span><\/li>\n
  • Rheingau<\/span><\/li>\n
  • Rheinhessen<\/span><\/li>\n
  • Saale-Unstrut<\/span><\/li>\n
  • Sachsen<\/span><\/li>\n
  • W\u00fcrttemberg\u00a0\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n
  • <\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    Major Producing Regions:<\/span><\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

    Mosel<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

    The Mosel is easily one of the most beautiful places in the world of wine. In particular, the Middle Mosel is a steep protected valley with vineyards of crumbling slate some of which are steeper than a black diamond ski slope. Riesling is king here and the wines combine the purity of fruit, delicacy, high acidity, and the unmistakable terroir of the vineyard.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Top vineyards: Erdener Pr\u00e4lat, \u00dcrziger W\u00fcrzgarten, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Bernkasteler Doctor, Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr, Piesporter Goldtr\u00f6pchen<\/span><\/p>\n

    Rheingau<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

    The Rheingau is considered by most to be Germany\u2019s most historic and important region. Here the Rhein River turns east\/northeast offering the vineyards a perfect southerly exposure. Like the Mosel, Riesling is by far the most important grape here but the relatively warmer climate makes for riper grapes, a richer wine style, and proliferation of outstanding dry wines\u2014as in Grosses Gew\u00e4chs\u2014from top vineyard sites. There are also two places in the Rheingau\u2014Assmanshausen, and Hochheim\u2014where Pinot Noir ripens successfully every year.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Top vineyards:\u00a0R\u00fcdesheim Berg Schlossberg, Schloss Johannisberg, Schloss Vollrads, Erbacher Marcobrunn, Kiedricher Gr\u00e4fenberg,\u00a0Hochheimer H\u00f6lle<\/span><\/p>\n

    Rheinhessen<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

    The Rheinhessen is literally just across the river from the Rheingau and the largest of Germany\u2019s 13 regions. The region is also a land of extremes being at once the home of Liebfraumilch as well as the Nackenheimer Rothenberg, one of Germany\u2019s great vineyards. Riesling is not as widely planted here but the style of Rheinhessen Rieslings is opulent, powerful, and racy. The best vineyards are concentrated in three villages bordering the Rhein in the northeast of the region near the beautiful medieval city of Mainz.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

    Top vineyards:\u00a0Nackenheimer Rothenberg, Niersteiner Hipping, Niersteiner Pettenthal, Oppenheimer Sacktr\u00e4ger, Westhofener Morstein<\/span><\/p>\n

    Pfalz<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

    Called the Rheinpfalz until 1992, the Pfalz region is located near Alsace in southern Germany. Like Alsace, the Haardt Mountains in the Pfalz create a rain shadow effect making it the warmest, driest place in the entire country. The range of grape varieties grown here is more varied compared to more northerly growing areas. Pfalz Rieslings, many of the top quality dry wines, are among the most opulent, powerful, and complex whites in Germany. Also worth seeking out are excellent Weissburgunders, Grauburgunders, and Sp\u00e4tburgunders.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Top vineyards: Forster Kirchenst\u00fcck, Forster Ungeheuer, Forster Jesuitengarten, Deidesheimer Langenmorgen, Deidesheimer Hohenmorgen, Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad,\u00a0Kallstader Saumagen<\/span><\/p>\n

    Nahe<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

    The Nahe is located due west of the Rheingau and considered by many to be the most beautiful part of Germany. Here Riesling is the most important grape and the wine style often described as combining the delicacy of Mosel wines with the power and elegance of the Rheingau.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Top vineyards:\u00a0Niederhauser Hermannsh\u00f6hle, Oberhauser Br\u00fccke, Schlossb\u00f6ckelheimer Kupfergrube, Schlossb\u00f6ckelheimer Felsenberg<\/span><\/p>\n

    Ahr Valley<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

    The tiny Ahr Valley in north-central Germany is one of the anomalies\u2014free electrons\u2014of the wine world. Located at 50\u00b0 latitude at the very outer limit where Vitis vinifera can be grown, over 80% of the grapes planted here are red and Pinot Noir by far the most important. Oddly enough, the Ahr is actually warmer overall than the Mosel because it\u2019s protected by the Eifel Mountains and its steep slopes of volcanic and slate soils face south and southwest acting as a sun trap.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

    Franken<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

    Franken or Franconia lies due east of Hochheim on the Main River. Although the region is known for its outstanding beer some excellent wines are made particularly from Silvaner. In fact, many argue the best examples of the Silvaner grape come to the Franken region. In the spring during spargel season (white asparagus) Silvaner is the go-to wine. Some Riesling is also grown here but the grape is challenged by the region\u2019s cooler, wetter climate. Generally, the wine styles produced in Franken are dry.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Top vineyards:\u00a0W\u00fcrzburger Stein, Iphofener Julius Echter Berg, B\u00fcrgstadter Centgrafenberg<\/span>
    \nGrape Varieties<\/span><\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    White<\/span><\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

    Riesling<\/em>:<\/strong> gets my votes as the world's greatest white grape. Riesling is the most widely planted grape in Germany accounting for over 22% all acreage under vine. In Germany Riesling displays an extraordinarily wide range of aromatics and flavors and can be made in a wide range of styles, from the dry Grosses Gew\u00e4chs bottlings to the ultra-sweet, rare Trockenbeerenauslesen.<\/span><\/p>\n

    M\u00fcller-Thurgau<\/em>:<\/strong> once the most widely planted grape in-country now usually destined for blends or jug wines. Some good single-varietal bottlings are also made.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Silvaner<\/em>:<\/strong> originally from Alsace, plantings of Silvaner (note the spelling vs. Alsace) are concentrated in Franconia. Here the grape excels under the guidance of producers like Hans Wirsching.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Scheurebe<\/em><\/strong>: a Riesling-Silvaner cross that resembles part Gew\u00fcrztraminer-part Riesling. Plantings of Scheurebe are on the decrease.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Weissburgunder<\/em>\u00a0(Pinot Blanc):<\/strong> increasingly popular in the post-sweet wine era of Germany. Plantings have increased by over 80% in the last 15 years.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Grauburgunder<\/em> (Pinot Gris):<\/strong> focused on warmer southern regions such as the Rheinhessen and the Pfalz. Plantings of Grauburgunder (literally \u201cgray Burgundy\u201d) have increased by over 90% in the last 15 years.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Red<\/span><\/em><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

    Sp\u00e4tburgunder<\/em>\u00a0(Pinot Noir):<\/strong> there are dozens of red grapes commercially planted in Germany but Pinot Noir is by far the most important. Perhaps the true litmus test of climate change for Germany is the fact that the country now ranks third in plantings of the grape worldwide. The learning curve for quality is steep as well with a Sp\u00e4tburgunder from Ahr Valley producer Meyer-N\u00e4kel winning Decanter Magazine\u2019s Pinot Noir of the year award in 2009.<\/span><\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    Germany\u2019s Levels of Wine Quality:<\/span><\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

    Qualit\u00e4tswein\/QbA:<\/strong> [kval-ee-TAYTS-vine] German for \u201cquality wine.\u201d QbA is an acronym for \u201cQualit\u00e4tswein bestimmter<\/span>
    \nAnbaugebiete,\u201d which means a quality wine that comes entirely from one of the 13 designated wine regions in Germany.<\/span>
    \nThis is an estate\u2019s basic wine, and can often be a very good value, especially from a top-rated producer. Chaptalization<\/span>
    \n(adding sugar to improve ripeness) is allowed in QbA.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Qualit\u00e4tswein mit Pr\u00e4dikat\/QmP<\/strong>: The word Pr\u00e4dikat [PRAY-dee-cot] literally is the grammatical term, \u201cpredicate.\u201d<\/span>
    \nPr\u00e4dikat wines are \u201cpredicated\u201d on a certain level of natural ripeness. But this does not necessarily refer to the amount of<\/span>
    \nsweetness in the finished wine. How dry to ferment the wine is up to the winemaker.<\/span><\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    There are six Pr\u00e4dikats:<\/span><\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

    Kabinett:<\/strong> This is the lightest and most delicate style of Riesling, made from normally ripe grapes picked early in<\/span>
    \nthe harvest. In a cool-climate region like the Mosel, Kabinett can be quite low in alcohol (7.5\u20138%).<\/span><\/p>\n

    Sp\u00e4tlese:<\/strong> [SHPAYT-lay-zeh] German for \u201clate-harvest.\u201d Sp\u00e4tlese has more richness and body than Kabinett<\/span>
    \nbecause the grapes are allowed to ripen for an extra week or more. Once harvested, the wine can be fermented<\/span>
    \nfruity (lieblich), half-dry (halbtrocken) or dry (trocken), depending on the preferences of the winemaker.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Auslese:<\/strong> [OWS-lay-zeh] Auslese means \u201cselected from the harvest.\u201d This is the Pr\u00e4dikat level for very ripe, late-harvested grapes, and often involves some amount of botrytis (aka \u201cnoble rot\u201d). Normally made in the fruity style<\/span>
    \nwith residual sweetness, Auslese is considered by most winemakers to be their finest achievement (aside from the<\/span>
    \nrare dessert wines).<\/span><\/p>\n

    Beerenauslese\/BA:<\/strong> [BEAR-en-ows-lay-zeh] By adding \u201cBeeren\u201d to the word \u201cAuslese,\u201d this means \u201cberry selection.\u201d Beerenauslese is a rare dessert wine made from extremely overripe grapes that are fully affected by botrytis and have shriveled down about halfway. The desiccating effect of the botrytis concentrates the juice.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Eiswein:<\/strong> [ICE-vine] Quite literally, \u201cice wine.\u201d One of the rare dessert wines, made from overripe grapes that have<\/span>
    \nfrozen solid on the vine. They are harvested quickly before sunrise and pressed while still frozen so that only<\/span>
    \nultra-concentrated grape juice is extracted. The water stays in the press as ice, so the resulting wine is very dense,<\/span>
    \nbut with vibrant, racy acidity.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Trockenbeerenauslese\/TBA<\/strong>: [TRAW-ken BEAR-en OWS-lay-zeh] Germany\u2019s greatest and rarest dessert wine.<\/span>
    \nTrocken (dry) here refers to the individually selected berries, which have been completely shriveled to dried-up<\/span>
    \nraisins by the botrytis mold. It does not refer to the taste of the wine, which is quite the opposite of trocken. This<\/span>
    \nis the sweetest, most intense dessert wine produced in Germany. When made from Riesling, that variety\u2019s superior structure keeps the wine vibrant and elegant, despite its massive weight.<\/span><\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    The 1971 Laws and the VDP Classification:<\/span><\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n

    A quick check of the six pr\u00e4dikate concept and entire German system where quality is based on grape sugar at harvest quickly reveals some troubling conclusions: great historic vineyard sources became irrelevant overnight and potential was created for making TBA from a secondary grape that still could find its way into the top tier of quality wine. To the latter point, I remember the very first German wine I tasted in the late 1970s. It was a 1976 BA made from the not-so-world famous Ortega grape from a producer in the Pfalz. The wine was syrupy sweet and smelled somewhere between a Glade plug-in air freshener and Aqua Velva. World-class it definitely was not.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Enter the VDP, or\u00a0Verband Deutscher Pr\u00e4dikatsweing\u00fcter<\/em>,\u00a0<\/em>an association of Germany\u2019s best producers founded in 1910. Today the VDP has just 200 members from all 13 regions. Given that over 30,000 entities grow grapes and make wine in Germany, it can easily be argued that the organization is the best of its kind in the world. It also goes without saying that the VDP\u2019s regulations and classification are far more stringent than typical German laws.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Originally the VDP promoted sustainable agricultural practices and un-chaptalized wines from member producers that were featured at an annual auction. With the passing of the \u201971 laws, its mission expanded and the organization sought to return Germany\u2019s great vineyards to their former prominence as well as the reputation of the country\u2019s great dry wines. Over time the organization created its own classification that would seek to accomplish both. In 2002 the VDP published the first version of their classification which was updated in 2006 and again in 2012. As it now stands the classification, called \u201cGrosse Lage\u201d (not to be confused with the grosslage described previously), is based on the Burgundian system of Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards. The four-tiered system is as follows:<\/span><\/p>\n

    \u2022\u00a0Grosse Gew\u00e4chs: Grand Cru vineyards<\/span><\/p>\n

    \u2022\u00a0Erste Gew\u00e4chs: Premier Cru vineyards<\/span><\/p>\n

    \u2022 Ortsweine: village-level wines<\/span><\/p>\n

    \u2022\u00a0Gutsweine: traditional estate wines<\/span><\/p>\n

    The best dry wines from top vineyard sites are called \u201cGrosses Gew\u00e4chs,\u201d roughly translated as Grand Cru<\/em>. Wines designated as such carry a \u201cGG\u201d embossing on the bottle and only the name of the vineyard vs. the traditional village-vineyard combination noted above. GG wines follow far stricter regulations than typical German wines including mandatory hand harvesting, minimum must weights (Sp\u00e4tlese level), and lower yields (50 hectoliters per hectare).<\/span><\/p>\n

    Each regional VDP association is now in the process of reviewing sites in its own area to determine if they will be classified as Grosse Gew\u00e4chs or Erste Gew\u00e4chs. It\u2019s also important to note that not all 13 regions signed off on the four-tiered classifications vs. the previous three-tiered version from 2006. Not a surprise given the fact that the VDP is a very political organization. It\u2019s really no different than expecting the Consorzio from Chianti Classico and Alto Adige to agree on anything.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    Additional Info which is good to know:<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

    The \u00f6chsle scale<\/em>:<\/strong> the system used in Germany to measure the amount of grape sugar at harvest. Here the specific gravity or density of grape juice is compared to a similar amount of water. The difference\u2014as in grape sugar and solids\u2014is measured in degrees \u00f6chsle. Every quality level of German wine\u2014from lowest to highest\u2014has minimum \u00f6chsle requirements.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Village-Vineyard wine names<\/em>:<\/strong> like Burgundy, top German wines are labeled with both the village and vineyard of their origin. For example, with a wine such as Bernkasteler Doctor from the Mosel, Bernkastel is the name of the village and Doctor the name of the vineyard. Note that the Germans usually add \u201cer\u201d to the name of the village like we would say New\u00a0Yorkers\u00a0<\/em>are from New York.\u00a0Remember, it\u2019s just like Burgundy<\/em>.<\/span><\/p>\n

    Acreage under vine<\/em>:<\/strong> as a country, Germany has approximately 252K acres of vineyards\u2014far less than the region of Bordeaux.<\/span><\/p>\n

    The scale of production<\/em>:<\/strong> Germany\u2019s entire annual production is only 25% that of France.<\/span><\/p>\n

    White vs. red wines<\/em>:<\/strong> just over 60% of German wine produced is white. That\u2019s down almost 20% in the last 25 years due partly to climate change but also because plantings of red grapes such as Pinot Noir (Sp\u00e4tburgunder in German) have increased significantly.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    German wines are produced according to an imperfect scale based on the ripeness of the grapes at harvest time. In general, riper grapes produce richer, more complex wines. This system was put into place in 1971 because of Germany\u2019s cool, northern climate, where full ripeness was often difficult to achieve. With global climate change, however, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":21663,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-16444","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-blogs"],"yoast_head":"\nUnderstanding German Wines........... - International Premium Niche Sommelier Job Portal<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.sommelier-jobs.com\/fr\/2021\/03\/27\/understanding-german-wines\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Understanding German Wines........... - International Premium Niche Sommelier Job Portal\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"German wines are produced according to an imperfect scale based on the ripeness of the grapes at harvest time. In general, riper grapes produce richer, more complex wines. This system was put into place in 1971 because of Germany\u2019s cool, northern climate, where full ripeness was often difficult to achieve. 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