Name: Mr. Matteo Zanni
Nationality: Italian
Wine consultant: click
Please tell us a little bit about your first encounter with wine & the wine industry. Did you have any particular mentors?
Well, my first encounter with the wine was not love at first sight; I prefer to think of it as a patient love story. I was born into a family where viticulture and winemaking were annual tasks. I went every year to Tuscany to harvest with my uncle in Chianti. It wasn't a job I hated, but I can't say I looked forward to it.
Then, in adolescence, I started working as a waiter. With my passion for this work and the restaurant above all, I began to study everything related to it. But with my basic knowledge of viticulture, studying wine was much easier at first. At the same time, I immediately began working near the cellar rather than in the kitchen. Day after day, love blossomed. From sommelier schools like AIS (Associazione Italiana Sommelier) and WSET (Wine Spirits Educational Trust), to the numerous wineries visited and many work experiences in Michelin-starred restaurants, the desire to learn and experience the world of wine never ceases.
In 2017, I met Pietro Raggi, a sommelier of my region (Emilia Romagna) with an extraordinary way of understanding, experiencing, and explaining wine. It was the moment I truly understood that this approach to wine was the right way to experience it simply, without disrespecting it. Deep knowledge and light explanation are the words that synthesise His approach. And after meeting several great figures in the wine industry, he remains the person I admire the most.
What specific traits or skills should a Sommelier possess for professional performance, and is there any person with those qualities you especially admire within the wine industry?
There are plenty of skills that a sommelier has to possess to be a complete one: knowledge about wine history, oenology, producers, ampelography, wine marketing and entrepreneurship, but without missing empathy. I don’t admire one more than another, but I see these skills in many Italian professions.
What would be your advice to a young Sommelier(e)? How to find a good position at home or abroad? Any further tips?
The only tips I would give to new sommeliers are to only take up this profession if you feel something deeply within you. This is a magical world where, if you let yourself go, you'll be incredibly rewarded, but only you know the right path. To prepare for this moment, I recommend studying every aspect of wine, from viticulture to the point of sale, and then, using all your knowledge, understand your passion for the world of wine and the direction you want to take.
When a customer asks for advice on selecting wine, what, in your opinion, would be the best approach?
This is a truly delicate point. It's important to understand the situation before (or during) an approach, to be prepared to have the right way to respond to the guest. We’re not all the same: some are curious, others are just looking for confirmation of their knowledge, and others are just shy about asking questions. And you have to try to capture their desire. The most important thing, in my opinion, is to respect the wine and the guest at that moment, to understand the best approach and the best wine to serve. Sometimes it's necessary to take the time to explain the wine, the pairings, and the tasting; sometimes you have to serve the less-than-perfect wine if that means creating the perfect moment for the guest.
What is your philosophy about glasses? Are you working with well-known brands, or are you considering new brands as well? How do you decide?
Many new glass artisans are emerging, producing quality glasses and truly exceptional shapes for the wine industry. I, however, use two major glass brands: Spiegelau and Riedel. Those brands allow me to choose from a wide range of shapes, allowing the wine to express itself at its best and in a variety of ways.
What advice would you give people on pairing wine with food?
When pairing with wine, I adopt the same balanced approach, combining technical knowledge and food history. I begin my pairing research as I like to say “a macchia d’olio” (like an oil stain). I search the area and gradually move from nearby to further afield. But not only that: if there's a wine style that historically pairs well with that food, like Oloroso Sherry and shrimp, why can't I be original and try the same style but from a different area, like a Marsala in that case?
Should a Sommelier:ère taste the guest’s wine?
About this question, yes, the sommelier should always taste the guest's wine, even if it has a screw cap. This is because it's a double check, for the guest and the wine, ensuring it's perfect and allowing the sommelier to stay updated on each wine in his cellar and its condition (if it's too young, too unhealthy, and so on).
What are the key ingredients for creating a wine list for a restaurant, and what is your opinion on pricing wine in restaurants? Do you have tips for determining markups?
Oh, pretty good questions.
I've created several wine lists throughout my career, but each was both a personal and professional experience. For example, in Verona, where the wine lists are tied to major brands and producers and a vertical tasting of each vintage, my wine list played with the landscape, a macro-area into which I wanted to divide my selection and allow guests to experience an innovative way of choosing wine. This allowed for a rotation of the cellar and a sense of fun for guests. At the same time, it was very personal because my vision of wine is tied to the terroir.. A choice that probably doesn't work as well as in Verona, where I come from (Emilia), because knowledge of wine is not as consolidated as in Veneto. Another important element is the pricing, which depends on many variables. In my experience, the wine has to be at least 30% of the average spending in a restaurant, and from that, we can evaluate the markup on the price.
How do you manage to stay on top of the changes in the wine industry?
Luckily, I have a community of friends in the wine world with whom we can share wine discoveries and new tastings. This, combined with the tastings I can attend, allows me to stay up-to-date on new vintages and meet the stars of the wine world.
How would a new vineyard get its wine noticed, and what is the best way for producers to improve their chances of being listed?
My opinion is that it depends on trends. For example, this is a good time for volcanic, pre-phylloxera and ancient tradition wine. Being a little artisan or a small producer is another qualitative perception brand. For those who have some of this condition, creating a strong community with the right marketing is a good starting point to be noticed.
If you were a wine, which variety would you be, and why?
If I were a wine, I’d probably be a Romagna Sangiovese. For my upbringing from this variety and at the same time my Emilia Romagna’s birth, which have given me the same welcoming character and, last but not least, the way it balances depending on the age of the vine.
Which top 3 types of wine (your faves would we find in your home wine collection, and what’s your desert island wine?
My 3 favourite types of wine right now are all different, from sparkling wine to red wine made with Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, the ambassador of Italian red winemaking:
Any interesting suggestions about magazines or online platforms?
My updated database includes winenews.it and decanter.com, two of the main websites for staying up to date with the wine world.
Best regards,
Matteo
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